Timeless Timepieces

By Jennifer Thome

Some things are timeless. In Hollywood and beyond, designers have proven this time and time again with the invention and reinvention of timepieces that not only keep our time, but remind us of the times. Several of fashion's big names have recently released models not unlike those found in their earlier collections. Though these watches look like those from decades gone by, they are made with the most modern technology available. Nonetheless, when listening to their ticking, one can't help but be reminded of the ever-strong heartbeat of old-fashioned glamour.

Why bring these classic designs back to life? Tiffany & Co. brought back the design of its19^th Century pocket watch in their recent Mark collection, featuring the traditional multi-layered cases. Tiffany's design reminds us of the company's long-standing excellence and innovation in the art of watch making, as best exemplified by the Atlas clock, which has been sitting over its door since 1853.

Another company, only slightly younger than Tiffany & Co., seems to be taking up this trend as well. Gucci has just launched a line of classically designed timepieces reminiscent of the thin-strapped filigree watches, popular both in real life and on the silver screen during the WWI and WWII eras. Not only is this watch a design classic, but also reminds us (ever so subtly) of the bitter-sweet departure of Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, where it graced the arm of our gentle heroine, when they realized their time had come.

Unwittingly, this very scene ushered in new times and, when Americans were unsure of their future and looked to Hollywood for reassurance, Bergman moved from silver-screen idol to a woman who encouraged and inspired a nation. It comes as no surprise that the many women who looked up to her would want to follow her lead, and what better way to get started than dressing the part? And so began a new era of style with confidence, charm and, for many a watchmaker, happy times.

Not all designers reach as far back as that era, when design was largely determined by black-and-white photography (no color photography, no colored gems; hence the fashion imperative of diamonds, pearls, and stainless steel). Armani's latest watch designs seem inspired by the classic casual look of the 1960s, keeping in line with the couturier's design philosophy of casual, chic, and high-quality materials, as well as rebirthing some older designs using classic houndstooth.

Looking back, it seems that designs, like films, have gone hand in hand with the tenor of their times - or maybe it just seems that way because these are the artifacts, often preserved on film, that remain. Accessories, especially time pieces, not only blend in with their settings but often reflect them. The simple and strong stainless steel watch that Lauren Bacall wore in Confidential Agent, for instance, was just one of many that resembled not only the gray skies that hung above WWII skies, but also the silver linings we found in them.

Perhaps it is these emotional associations that keep these timepieces ticking in our consciousness. Indeed, as history repeats itself, so does fashion, and by using these vintage designs, designers can remind their buyers of the heyday of couture - a time when men and women alike were well dressed, shoes and purses looked as though effortlessly matched, and every garment fit just right. Back then, it seems, we were able to believe in a happy ending and a tailored fit - a haven compared to the complicated, mass-produced jungle we fight our way through today.

At least, that is the myth such vintage designs are selling. And who can resist? After all, Hollywood isn't the only Dream Factory; high fashion is a land of beautiful illusions, too.